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Via ferrata Punta Tabaretta, Ortles

Solda (Sulden)
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Informationen zur Tour Via ferrata Punta Tabaretta, Ortles

Tour Hauptmerkmale

  • Duration
    5:45 h
  • Distance
    9.6km
  • Altitude
    880 m
  • Altitude
    880 m
  • Max. height
    3036 m
A relatively long climb into the mountains. The hike is to be done with extreme seriousness and is only recommended in excellent weather conditions. A good physical condition, strong arms along with Alpine and high mountain experience are essential for this hike. Once on the via ferrata there are no escape routes and turning back is extremely difficult. This climbing route is relatively new, is reserved for experts and will surely become one of the classical and most difficult vie ferrate.

Directions


Characteristics of the via ferrata: passages with steep rocks that stick out and there are many long stretches without any artificial supports. The exposed path mostly twists and turns in a majestic Alpine environment and has breath-taking view of the northern sides of the Ortles. The climb goes over steady and varied rocks but they can become slippery when there is rain, ice or snow.
Difficulty: It is possibly the most difficult via ferrata in Alto Adige, the Dolomites and in the Garda area. Long and with steep stretches, the hike is exposed and does not have any supports. The climb requires a lot of arm strength and it twists and turns around a mainly Alpine route; there is the danger of falling off the rocks on some short stretches and it is impossible to abandon the via in case of emergency. Moreover, turning back without ropes is extremely difficult.
Access to the ferrata: from the cable-car station follow the well-signedposted path that leads to the Tabaretta and Payer havens. At the Tabaretta haven you will see a sign for Klettersteig/Ferrata. Follow the straight and exposed track until you come across a gravel path. Just before the approach to a drumlin, climb a few metres along the scree valley until the beginning of the via ferrata. (NB: there are no other signs or indications but the steel cables can be seen from the access path.)
Technical details: a mostly steep via ferrata, secured with steel cables. Route without artificial supports in the overhanging or slippery stretches. The walk to the Geelen Knott is extremely tiring, however the challenge is easier with a sling or a runner. Some short stretches which can be walked between climbs are easier but are exposed so be careful to not fall off the mountain side. Be aware of other climbers as well! The end of the ferrata is at over 3,000 m so is very different from rock-climbing in the Garda area.
Type of the course: 100% steel cables, with short walkable stretches.
Complete gradient of the climb: 780 m, 3:30-4:00 hours.
Complete gradient until the beginning of the climb: 60 m descent and 280 m climb, 1:30-2:00 hours.
Gradient of the ferrata: 500m, 2-2:30 hours.
Descent: at the end of the ferrata that finishes on the normal climb towards Ortles, walk to the nearby Prayer haven. Follow path n.4 and walk down towards the Tabaretta haven; from there walk back along the path that led to the ferrata and arrive at the Orso/Langenstein cable-car station. 1:45-2:00 hours. 

Starting point

Orso Cable-car station, 2,330 m (open from the beginning of July to the end of September- see timetable at www.seilbahnensulden.it)

Target point

Specificity

Overnight accommodation is available at the Tabaretta haven (close to starting point) and the Payer haven. The havens are both open from the end of June to mid/ end of September. 

Parking

Car-park in Solda near the Langenstein cable-car. 

Public transportation

Take the Val Venosta train from Merano to Spondigna – Spondinig and then the bus to Solda – Sulden. 

Directions

Driving from Merano or Passo di Resia, go along Val Venosta until Spondigna – Spondinig. From here drive down the road to Passo dello Stelvio and carry on to Solda- Sulden; at the church, turn right and go down a dirt road until you reach the car-park of the Orso-Langenstein cable-car. 

Editor's review

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  • Technique

  • Experience

  • Landscape

Copyright

Horst Gamper

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  • Avatar of Christof Tappeiner

    Christof Tappeiner

    nichts für Warmduscher ;-)

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