Worthwhile summit crossing following in the footsteps of the First World War. Via ferrata Torre di Toblin and Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler up Monte Paterno.
From the summit the via ferrata offers stunning 360 degree panoramic views. The short but very steep and exposed ascent on the north face is largely via ladders (via ferrata ladders). This short stretch is a good trial stretch to discover if you can master the difficulties (difficulty to D) on the further stages. Descent via the eastern crest is easier and graded difficulty A,B.
Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler C
Varied via ferrata with access through a WW1 tunnel (head torch required!). This is the most frequented tour in the region and so “congestion” can occur, especially in August. Earlier in the season there is still some remaining ice in the tunnels and in the snowfields before Forcella del Camoscio. The crux is at the steep climb just after Forcella del Camoscio and is graded difficulty C. On the upside, you will be rewarded on Monte Paterno with direct views of the north faces of the Three Peaks.
Sentiero delle Forcelle: B
From the col of Monte Paterno you return via Forcella del Camoscio via the same path. In the steep section there are several possible descents to prevent congestion, but no-one bothers to observe those! Well secured via ferrata sections alternate with exposed passages. During ascent and descent oncoming hikers must be expected every now and then.
Author’s map recommendations
EquipmentCertified via ferrata set an helmet, alpine boots and gloves (for via ferratas).
Basic Equipment for Via Ferratas
- Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
- Layered, moisture wicking clothing
- Hiking socks
- Rucksack (with rain cover)
- Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
- Hiking poles
- Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
- First aid kit
- Kit para bolhas
- Bivy / survival bag
- Survival blanket
- Pocket knife
- Cell phone
- Navigation equipment / map and compass
- Emergency contact details
Technical Equipment for Via Ferratas
- Via ferrata set
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Via ferrata or hard-wearing safety gloves
- Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
- Via ferrata belay kit if required (when accompanying beginners and / or children)
- The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
- For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
- Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.