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Turnerkamp Südgrat

· 1 review · Alpine tour · Mühlwald
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AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Turnerkamp Südgrat
    / Turnerkamp Südgrat
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Beginn des Grates mit Gehgelände und I-II
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Der gesamte Grat von unten im Überblick. Der Schein trügt, er ist länger als man meint.
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die erste kletterei (IV)
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die Schlüsselstelle, eine mit Bohrhaken und Eisenstiften gut versicherte 15m lange Platte (V)
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Heikle Querung kurz vor der Schlüsselstelle
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Im Bild Schlüsselstelle von oben mit gesamten Grat im Hintergrund
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Das Gipfelkreuz
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 9x 25m Westseitig über die Engländerrinne abseilen in oft brückigem Fels
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die mächtige Randspalte ist teilweise aufgefüllt
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Das Ende der Engländerrinne nach der Randspalte auf dem Gletscher
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Abstieg über Gletscher bis zum Einstieg
    Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
m 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 km Turnerkamp Chemnitzer Hütte (Rif. Porro) Chemnitzer Hütte (Rif. Porro)
difficult
Distance 18 km
10:00 h
1,655 m
1,656 m
3,408 m
1,859 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Peter Warasin
Author
Peter Warasin 
Update: September 27, 2019
Difficulty
V, 40°, PD+ difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
3,408 m
Lowest point
1,859 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Protection
sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear
Rope length
1 x 50 m
Number of quickdraws
8

Rest Stop

Jausenstation Neves-See
Chemnitzer Hütte (Rif. Porro)

Safety information

Start

Parkplatz am Neves-Stausee (1,860 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Parkplatz am Neves-Stausee

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Nr. 036 - Sand in Taufers - 1:25.000

Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

5.0
(1)
Michael Mairegger
September 11, 2021 · Community
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When did you do this route? September 11, 2021

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
V, 40°, PD+ difficult
Distance
18 km
Duration
10:00 h
Ascent
1,655 m
Descent
1,656 m
Highest point
3,408 m
Lowest point
1,859 m
Circular route Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Ridge traverse

Statistics

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