recommended route
Turnerkamp Südgrat
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/ Turnerkamp SüdgratPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG -
/ Beginn des Grates mit Gehgelände und I-IIPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Der gesamte Grat von unten im Überblick. Der Schein trügt, er ist länger als man meint.Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Die erste kletterei (IV)Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Die Schlüsselstelle, eine mit Bohrhaken und Eisenstiften gut versicherte 15m lange Platte (V)Photo: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Heikle Querung kurz vor der SchlüsselstellePhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Im Bild Schlüsselstelle von oben mit gesamten Grat im HintergrundPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Das GipfelkreuzPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ 9x 25m Westseitig über die Engländerrinne abseilen in oft brückigem FelsPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Die mächtige Randspalte ist teilweise aufgefülltPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Das Ende der Engländerrinne nach der Randspalte auf dem GletscherPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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/ Abstieg über Gletscher bis zum EinstiegPhoto: Peter Warasin, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
difficult
Distance 18 km
10:00 h
1,655 m
1,656 m
3,408 m
1,859 m
Author’s recommendation
Difficulty
V, 40°, PD+
difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
3,408 m
Lowest point
1,859 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
Protection
sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear
Rope length
1 x 50 m
Number of quickdraws
8
Rest Stop
Jausenstation Neves-SeeChemnitzer Hütte (Rif. Porro)
Safety information
Start
Parkplatz am Neves-Stausee (1,860 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w
Destination
Parkplatz am Neves-Stausee
Turn-by-turn directions
Note
all notes on protected areas
Public transport
Getting there
Parking
Coordinates
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike
Author’s map recommendations
Tabacco Nr. 036 - Sand in Taufers - 1:25.000
Recommended maps for this region:
Show more
Equipment
Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes
- Layered, moisture wicking clothing
- Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
- 35-45 liter rucksack (with rain cover)
- Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
- Lip protection (SPF 30+)
- Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
- Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
- Neckwear
- moisture wicking skull / knit cap
- Hiking poles
- Sunglasses
- Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
- First aid kit
- Kit para bolhas
- Bivy / survival bag
- Survival blanket
- Headlamp
- Pocket knife
- Whistle
- Cell phone
- Cash
- Navigation equipment / map and compass
- Emergency contact details
- ID
Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes
- B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
- Climbing harness
- Climbing helmet
- Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
- C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)
- Single rope
- Half ropes
- Twin ropes
- Friend/cam 0
- Friend/cam 0.1
- Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
- Friend/cam 0.2
- Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
- Friend/cam 0.3
- Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
- Friend/cam 0.4
- Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
- Friend/cam 0.5
- Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
- Friend/cam 1
- Friend/cam 2
- Friend/cam 3
- Friend/cam 4
- Friend/cam 5
- Friend/cam 6
- Friend/cam 7
- Friend/cam 8
- Set of nuts
- Double set of nuts
- Small nuts
- Medium nuts
- Large nuts
- Nut tool
- Tricam(s)
- Ball nut(s)
- (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
- Hexentric(s)
- Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
- Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
- Pitons and hammer
- Set of ice screws
- Short ice screws
- Medium ice screws
- Long ice screws
- V-Thread tool
- 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
- Quickdraws
- Locking device
Camping Equipment
- Tent (3- or 4-season)
- Stove (including fuel and utensils)
- Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
- Food
- Toiletries and medication
- Toilet paper
Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut
- Toiletries and medication
- Quick-drying towel
- Ear plugs
- Sleeping bag liner
- Sleepwear
- Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
- Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
- The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
- For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
- Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.
Reviews
Difficulty
V, 40°, PD+
difficult
Distance
18 km
Duration
10:00 h
Ascent
1,655 m
Descent
1,656 m
Highest point
3,408 m
Lowest point
1,859 m
Statistics
2D
3D
Maps and trails
Distance
km
Duration
: h
Ascent
m
Descent
m
Highest point
m
Lowest point
m
Questions and answers
Would you like to the ask the author a question?
Rating
Photos from others