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Alpine tour recommended route

Thurwieserspitze (3.652 m) - einsamer Berg im Schatten von Ortler & Co.

Alpine tour · Ortler Main Ridge
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AVS Sektion Bozen Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Die ersten Sonnenstrahlen lassen den Piz Bernina aufleuchten
    / Die ersten Sonnenstrahlen lassen den Piz Bernina aufleuchten
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Auf halber Höhe am Zebrúgletscher mit Blick zur Rinne welche zum Thurwieserjoch führt. Spätestens hier muss die Entscheidung über die Aufstiegsvariante getroffen werden.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / In der bis zu 45° steilen Eis- und Schneerinne.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Am Thurwieserjoch mit Blick auf den Ostgrat.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Der Schneegrat am Sattel
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Am Einstieg zum O-Grat. Es wird zunehmend steiler.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Das brüchige Gestein erfordert achtsammes Klettern.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Überreste der Kriegsstellungen aus dem Ersten Weltkrieg am Gipfel der Thurwieserspitze.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Einige Abseilstellen erleichtern den Abstieg.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Der Abstieg über die Eiskögel zum Ortlerpass, wo der Zebrúgletscher wieder betreten wird.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Die V. Alpini Hütte ist bald erreicht.
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, AVS Sektion Bozen
  • / Die Thurwieserspitze, aufgenommen vom Hochjoch, mit dem Grat vom Thurwieserjoch zum Ortlerpass über welchen die Route des Ab- bzw. Anstiegs führt
    Photo: Eduard Gruber, Stefan Cappello
m 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 12 10 8 6 4 2 km Rifugio Quinto Alpini
Distance 13.1 km
11:00 h
1,705 m
1,706 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Eduard Gruber
Eduard Gruber 
Update: May 03, 2018
III-, 55°, AD difficult
Risk potential
Highest point
3,652 m
Lowest point
2,165 m
Best time of year
Cardinal direction
Belay stations
with bolts
Rope length
1 x 50 m
First ascent
Zuerst bestiegen wurde die Spitze am 20. August 1869 durch den Stuttgarter Alpinisten Theodor Harpprecht und dem Bergführer Josef Schnell aus Kals am Großglockner, nachdem ein erster Versuch durch einen Leutnant Scheibler aus dem k. k. Pioniercorps von Sulden aus mit dem Bergführer Johann Pinggera fehlgeschlagen war. (Quelle Wikipedia)

Rest Stop

Rifugio Quinto Alpini

Safety information

Tips and hints


Niblogo in der Gemeinde Santa Caterina Valfurva (SO) (2,165 m)


Niblogo in der Gemeinde Santa Caterina Valfurva (SO)

Turn-by-turn directions


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Getting there



Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Blatt Nr. 08 1: 25. 000 Ortlergebiet

Book recommendations for this region:

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Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others

III-, 55°, AD difficult
13.1 km
11:00 h
1,705 m
1,706 m
Scenic Summit route Ridge traverse


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