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Alpine tour recommended route

Sportler goes Ortler

Alpine tour · Vinschgau
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
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    Photo: Mammut Italy, Mammut
m 4000 3800 3600 3400 3200 3000 2800 6 5 4 3 2 1 km
difficult
Distance 6.2 km
6:30 h
979 m
979 m
3,905 m
3,023 m
Profile picture of Mammut Italy
Author
Mammut Italy
Update: July 30, 2015
Difficulty
III-, 40° difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Ortler, 3,905 m
Lowest point
3,023 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
First ascent
The Ortler was first climbed by Josef Pichler, a chamois hunter from St. Leonhard in Passeier, and his companions Johann Leitner and Johann Klausner from Zell am Ziller on 27 September 1804.

Start

Solda (3,026 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Ortler (3905m)

Turn-by-turn directions

Solda - Payer Hut 3 hours 1170m; Payer Hut - top 4 - 5 hours 900 m;

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

If you didn't come by car, travelling in the area will be stressful and annoying, as public transport is not developed very well. Local bus companies will bring you at least to the most important tourist areas. But once you arrived at your destination, you will like the easy access to many mountain groups and huts by cable cars and/or well marked trails - the infrastructure for the hiker and alpinist itself around Sulden is developed pretty well.

Getting there

The Ortler Group is accessed best from North via the Reschenpass if you are coming from Austria and via the Stilfser Joch if you are coming from Switzerland or Italy. Train connections are only existing from Meran to Schluderns in the Vinschagu valley, from there you will have to get a bus to Sulden. 

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
III-, 40° difficult
Distance
6.2 km
Duration
6:30 h
Ascent
979 m
Descent
979 m
Highest point
3,905 m
Lowest point
3,023 m

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