Plan a route here Copy route
Alpine tour recommended route

Piz Palü, 3900m, über Ostpfeiler von Diavolezza

Alpine tour · Bernina Group
Responsible for this content
DAV Sektion Wiesbaden Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Luftseilbahn auf die Diavolezza
    / Luftseilbahn auf die Diavolezza
    Photo: Asurnipal, commons.wikimedia.org
  • /
  • / Sonnenuntergang am Berghaus Diavolezza
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
  • / Großer Eisbruch des Vadret Pers
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
  • / Der lange Grat des Piz Palü Ostpfeilers
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
  • / Am Piz Palü Ostpfeiler
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
  • / Steile Firnschneide zum Ostgipfel des Piz Palü
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
  • / Übergang vom Ost- zum Hauptgipfel des Piz Palü
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
  • / Blick zurück zum Ostgipfel des Piz Palü. Links fällt steil die Firnschneide des Ostpfeilers ab.
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
  • / Kraxelei am Übergang zum Piz Spinas
    Photo: Paul Krämer, DAV Sektion Wiesbaden
m 4000 3800 3600 3400 3200 3000 2800 2600 2400 12 10 8 6 4 2 km
difficult
Distance 12.2 km
10:00 h
1,363 m
1,363 m
3,900 m
2,692 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Paul Krämer
Author
Paul Krämer
Update: December 26, 2020
Difficulty
IV, 45°, D- difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Piz Palü, 3,900 m
Lowest point
2,692 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Belay stations
with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts, trad gear
Protection
sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear
Rope length
1 x 50 m
Number of quickdraws
6
First ascent
Moritz von Kuffner, Martin Schocher und Alexander Burgener; 22.08.1899

Rest Stop

Berghaus Diavolezza

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Berghaus Diavolezza (2,970 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Berghaus Diavolezza

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public-transport-friendly

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Swiss Topo 1277 Piz Bernina

Swiss Topo 1278 La Rösa

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

Ask the first question

Would you like to the ask the author a question?


Rating

Write your first review

Help others by being the first to add a review.


Photos from others


Difficulty
IV, 45°, D- difficult
Distance
12.2 km
Duration
10:00 h
Ascent
1,363 m
Descent
1,363 m
Highest point
3,900 m
Lowest point
2,692 m
Public-transport-friendly Circular route Scenic Refreshment stops available Cableway ascent/descent Summit route Ridge traverse Ridge crossing

Statistics

  • My Map
  • Content
  • Show images Hide images
Features
2D 3D
Maps and trails
Distance  km
Duration : h
Ascent  m
Descent  m
Highest point  m
Lowest point  m
Push the arrows to change the view