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Alpine tour recommended route

Ortler Normalweg

· 8 reviews · Alpine tour · Ortler Group
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  • Zustieg Tabarettahütte
    / Zustieg Tabarettahütte
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Morgenstimmung Payerhütte
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Tabaretta Grat
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Tabaretta Grat
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Bärenloch
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Oberer Ortlerferner
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Ortler Gipfel
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, alpenvereinaktiv.com
m 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 km
moderate
Distance 21 km
15:00 h
2,000 m
2,000 m
3,905 m
2,010 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Michael Pröttel
Author
Michael Pröttel 
Update: July 30, 2015
Difficulty
III, 40°, PD+ moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Ortler, 3,905 m
Lowest point
Sulden, 2,010 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Belay stations
with bolts
Protection
pitons, trad gear
Rope length
1 x 50 m
Number of quickdraws
4
First ascent
J. Pichler, 27.9.1804

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Sulden (1,851 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Sulden

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

M. Pröttel, Die Königstouren der Ostalpen. Bruckmann Verlag.

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Karte 08, Ortlergebiet, 1:25000

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

4.8
(8)
Daniel Kubera 
May 11, 2020 · Community
Show more
When did you do this route? July 30, 2017
Photo: Daniel Kubera, Community
Photo: Daniel Kubera, Community
Photo: Daniel Kubera, Community
Show all reviews

Photos from others

topkruis Ortler
+ 9

Reviews
Difficulty
III, 40°, PD+ moderate
Distance
21 km
Duration
15:00 h
Ascent
2,000 m
Descent
2,000 m
Highest point
3,905 m
Lowest point
2,010 m
Scenic Summit route

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