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Alpine tour recommended route

Hoher Angelus (3521m) über Reinstadlerweg

· 1 review · Alpine tour · Ortler Main Ridge
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ÖAV Sektion Braunau Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Hoher Angelus und Vertainspitze, rechts Zufallspitze und Cevedale
    / Hoher Angelus und Vertainspitze, rechts Zufallspitze und Cevedale
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Düsseldorfer Hütte
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Westgrat des Hohen Angelus
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / am Rücken vor dem Westgrat
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Westgrateinstieg
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / kurze Seilsicherung
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Gipfelfirnfeld
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Tschenglser Hochwand, Schafberg und Kleiner Angelus aus dem Gipfelfirn
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / unter dem Südgipfel
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / flacher Gipfelgrat
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Hoher Angelus
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Abstieg entlang des Anstiegs
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Blockgratabstieg
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Westgratansatz - links freier, rechts gesicherter Anstieg
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Zaybachschlucht über Sulden
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
m 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 km
difficult
Distance 15.6 km
7:01 h
1,808 m
1,737 m
3,521 m
1,857 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Wolfgang Lauschensky
Author
Wolfgang Lauschensky 
Update: July 28, 2021
Difficulty
II-, 35°, PD- difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Hoher Angelus, 3,521 m
Lowest point
Sulden, 1,857 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Rest Stop

Düsseldorfer Hütte (Rif. Serristori)

Start

Sulden (1,857 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Hoher Angelus

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco 25 Blatt 08 – Ortlergebiet
Kompass 50 Blatt 072 (Nationalpark Stilfser Joch)

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

5.0
(1)
malu n 
October 19, 2019 · Community
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Profile picture of Outdooractive Redaktion
Outdooractive Redaktion
November 24, 2014 · Community
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Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
II-, 35°, PD- difficult
Distance
15.6 km
Duration
7:01 h
Ascent
1,808 m
Descent
1,737 m
Highest point
3,521 m
Lowest point
1,857 m
Out and back Scenic Refreshment stops available Cableway ascent/descent Ridge traverse

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