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Gratkletterei in der Texelgruppe: Überschreitung Blaulackenkopf - Kreuzspitze - Texelspitze - Rotegg

· 1 review · Alpine tour · Meraner Land
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Simon Mittelberger 
  • Gratkletterei zwischen Kreuzspitze und Texelspitze
    / Gratkletterei zwischen Kreuzspitze und Texelspitze
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
  • / Brüchiges Material am ganzen Grat
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
  • / Querung unterhalb der Texelspitze
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
  • / Gratkletterei zwischen Texelspitze und Rotegg
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
  • / Immer wieder auch kurze Gehstücke
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
  • / Gratkletterei zwischen Texelspitze und Rotegg
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
  • / Blick vom Rotegg auf die zurückligende Route
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
  • / Blick vom Rotegg auf die zurückligende Route mit Routenverlauf
    Photo: Simon Mittelberger, CC BY, Community
m 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 km
difficult
Distance 22 km
10:00 h
2,150 m
2,350 m
Difficulty
III+, PD+ difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Texelspitze, 3,318 m
Lowest point
Weg Richtung Texelbahn, 1,300 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Rope length
1 x 30 m
Number of quickdraws
3

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Parkplatz oberhalb Katharinaberg (Schnalstal) (1,742 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Parkplatz der Texelbahn (Partschins)

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Blatt 04 - Naturns

Tabacco Blatt 11 - Meran und Umgebung

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

5.0
(1)
Stefan Cappello 
September 06, 2020 · Community
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When did you do this route? September 05, 2020

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
III+, PD+ difficult
Distance
22 km
Duration
10:00 h
Ascent
2,150 m
Descent
2,350 m
Refreshment stops available Summit route Ridge traverse Ridge crossing Linear route

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