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Cima Sternai peak

Alpine tour · Val di Sole, Pejo e Rabbi
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  • Cima Sternai peak
    / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Mochen Tiziano, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
  • / Cima Sternai peak
    Photo: Ph Guide Alpine Val di Sole, APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
m 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 km SAENT "SILVIO DORIGONI" SAENT "SILVIO DORIGONI"
An Alpine climb within the Stelvio National Park. This is the highest summit of the Val Saent, the dividing point between the Val di Rabbi and the Val d’Ultimo.
difficult
Distance 18.2 km
8:00 h
1,926 m
1,926 m
One of the most classic climbs in the Ortles-Cevedale group. Good ascents all marked with cairns from Rifugio Saent Dorigoni («ometti di pietra», these are stones and rocks piled on top of each other for the purpose of orientation in the mountains). There are steel anchors and snap-hooks in the rocks for safety purposes. A degree of training and physical fitness are required for this climb but the spectacular panorama makes it all worthwhile.

Author’s recommendation

From Cima Sternai where a large cross can be seen, it is easy to admire the peaks and majestic Ortles-Cevedale glaciers.
Profile picture of APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
Author
APT Valli di Sole, Peio e Rabbi
Update: March 27, 2018
Difficulty
II, 35°, PD+ difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
3,439 m
Lowest point
1,598 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
First ascent
30th July 1868 J.Payer

Rest Stop

SAENT "SILVIO DORIGONI"

Safety information

It is advised that this climb be undertaken when there is good visibility and with a good background of training at high altitudes. In the case of recent snowfall, the climb to the summit can difficult due to orientation on the rocks on the superior part of the ridge. The use of ropes, harness and crampons, plus a profound knowledge of the basics is vital. In order to take on this itinerary in complete safety entrust the professionalism of the Val di Sole Alpine guides.

  • Choose a route which is suitable and in line with your preparation.
  • Leave information of your itinerary and approximate return time.
  • Pay attention to the signs and indications found on the way.
  • Do not hesitate to return if necessary.
  • In case of accident or emergency, call 118.

All the information given in this profile is subject to change or alteration and therefore not always absolutely valid. It is not possible to completely avoid inaccuracies due to the very rapid changes in weather or environmental conditions, which can verify themselves without warning. For this reason, we accept No responsibility for eventual changes, which may affect the person involved. We strongly advise that weather and/or environmental conditions be checked before departure

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

We recommend that the climb be divided over two days. It is preferable to leave at first light for the climb towards the Cima Sternai.
SUPPORT POINT: Rifugio Saent S. Dorigoni (2.436m)


Val di Sole Mountain Guide
Weather in Trentino
Val di Sole Tourist Board

Start

Coler car park – Malga Stablasolo (1,601 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Cima Sternai peak

Turn-by-turn directions

EEA - Escursionisti Esperti con Attrezzature (Expert Equipped Hike)

Departure from the Coler car park in Val di Rabbi. The car park can be reaches by car or bus (16 seats). A shuttle bus leaves from the car park (there is a charge) and arrives at Malga Stablasolo (1.529m, this saves about a 30 minute walk). From here the SAT 106 to Doss della Croce (1.796m) Prà di Saent and finally to Rifugio Saent «S. Dorigoni» (2.436m).

From here a climb to Lago Sternai where there are the cairns to direct you around the Sternai lakes. Once you arrive in proximity to the crossroads indicated by a large larchwood sign (2.700m) proceed along following the stone cairns until reaching Cima Sternai (3.443m). The summit of Sternai, especially after the end of July requires the use of crampons. Rope and harness are also indispensable to ensure anchorage to the steel hooks already fixed to the rocks.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

By train to Trento (Verona-Brennero line) and from here, take the Trento-Malè-Mezzana (Val di Sole) local train to any station where buses are available for the latest timetable go to www.valdisole.net/EN/Public-Transportation.

Getting there

FROM BOLOGNA-VERONA AND FROM BRENNERO
Take the A22 motorway and exit at Trento Nord (if you are coming from the south) or S.Michele all’Adige (if you coming from the north). Proceed in direction Cles, Val di Non, Val di Sole until reaching the Val di Rabbi.

FROM BERGAMO-BRESCIA
Proceed along the SS42 (direction Passo del Tonale) and from here follow the signs to Malè and Val di Rabbi.

Cross the entire Val di Rabbi. After the Bagni di Rabbi proceed in the direction Coler (reachable by car or 16 seater shuttlebus). During the summer, the shuttle leaves from the car park and goes to Malga Stablasolo. For information on prices and times, speak to the Visitor Centre Rabbi and Stelvio National Park (Tel. +39 0463 909774 - cvrabbi@stelviopark.it).

Parking

Coler car park (4km from Piazzola di Rabbi)

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Carta escursionistica Val di Sole 1:50.000 (Alpenwelt)
Kompass 636 Ortles-Passo dello Stelvio-Valfurva 1:25.000
Kompass 637 Cevedale-Valle di Peio-Alta Valfurva 1:25.000
Tabacco Ortles-Cevedale 1:25.000 (N. 008)
Tabacco Val di Peio Val di Rabbi Val di Sole 1:25.000 (N. 048)
Tabacco Brenta Adamello-Presanella Val di Sole 1:50.000 (N. 010)

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

This climb is suitable only for experts fitted out with the correct equipment such as, rope snap hook and harness, an ice axe, an iron spike and helmet. Waterproof clothes, light but warm (the first layer of clothing in contact with the skin, should be made of polypropylene, a second layer should be of wool or felt (for insulation) and the third layer, waterproof windcheater raincoat in nylon or Gore-Tex, long trousers, mountain boots, gloves and hat, a change of clothes, rucksack and water bottle, skin cream and sun glasses and personal items.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
II, 35°, PD+ difficult
Distance
18.2 km
Duration
8:00 h
Ascent
1,926 m
Descent
1,926 m
Scenic Refreshment stops available Ridge traverse Geological highlights

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