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Steger-Direkte, Rosengartenspitze, Dolomites (Catinaccio)

· 2 reviews · Alpine climbing · Dolomites
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DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Rosengartenspitze; erkennbar ist der spitze nördliche Vorgipfel und der Hauptgipfel mit Gipfelkreuz
    Rosengartenspitze; erkennbar ist der spitze nördliche Vorgipfel und der Hauptgipfel mit Gipfelkreuz
    Photo: Simone Spörckmann, CC BY-SA, DAV Sektion Duisburg
m 3200 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km Rosengartenspitze (2981 m) Rifugio Vajolet Rifugio Vajolet
The east face rises 600 metres before flattening out and heading for the summit. The climb follows the logical line of huge cracks. A masterpiece of the Stegers.
difficult
Distance 3.9 km
10:00 h
738 m
738 m
2,981 m
2,243 m
If you stand under the east face of the Rosengartenspitze and follow the magnificent large cracks with your eyes, you can already guess the climbable line. Stretching upwards, they lead to the summit. A day-long undertaking beckons. With 20 SL and another 70 Hm through easy terrain (UIAA II), the route leads to the summit. Afterwards, the ridge of the normal route follows as a bonus in the descent.

Author’s recommendation

  • After successfully climbing the wall, you should look for the view back from the terrace of the Vajolet hut.
Profile picture of Thomas Schwindt
Author
Thomas Schwindt 
Update: August 30, 2022
Difficulty
VI- difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Rosengartenspitze, 2,981 m
Lowest point
Vajolet hut, 2,243 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
130 m, 1:00 h
Wall height
600 m
Climbing length
800 m, 7:00 h
Descent
738 m, 2:00 h
Belay stations
pitons, trad gear
Protection
pitons, trad gear
Rope length
2 x 50 m
First ascent
H. Steger, P. Wiesinger, F. Masé Dari and S. Lechner 1929

Track types

Dirt road 18.18%Forested/wild trail 6.54%Path 42.38%Traces of trail 5.44%Secured trail 4.73%Unknown 22.71%
Dirt road
0.7 km
Forested/wild trail
0.3 km
Path
1.6 km
Traces of trail
0.2 km
Secured trail
0.2 km
Unknown
0.9 km
Show elevation profile

Rest stops

Rifugio Vajolet

Start

Vajolet hut (2,246 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.458488, 11.632307
DMS
46°27'30.6"N 11°37'56.3"E
UTM
32T 702132 5148357
w3w 
///outlast.advising.drainer
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Destination

Vajolet hut

Turn-by-turn directions

The ascent

.

From the Vajolet hut, follow trail no. 584 for just a short distance to climb immediately to the left before trail no. 542, which goes up to the left, and cross below Punta Emma to the south. After about 30 minutes, following the clearly visible path, you reach a green slope dotted with large flowers. From there, the entrance is already clearly visible. We climb a few more metres to the base in front of us. In easy climbing (UIAA II) we ascend it from left to right to the entry at the end of the 1st pitch (2 drill loops with sling).

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Description of the climb

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1st SL (II) A small stem leads from left to right to the actual start of the climb (40m). The belaystation is visibly marked with two bolts and a sling. From here the fun begins.

2nd SL (IV+) A piton on the right gives us safety up to the clearly visible gully. We leave the crack at the first left crack, cross another crack and after a short 20m we stop at a slab with two pitons.

3.

3rd SL (V) The yellow rock looks splintery, but turns out to be surprisingly solid. Small holds in the crack make you think wistfully of magnesium, but the gentle breeze quickly dries your hands. Numerous normal pitons point the way up, so that you should not delay, so that you cross out to the left at the seventh and climb up the edge to the belaystation (30m). Two pitons give you enough security for the next pitch.

4th SL (VI-) A wonderful crack intersection awaits the aspirant. With a good spreading technique and the play of the feet, you can get through the crack quite easily and without much effort. Here, too, hooks have not been spared. The following belaystation on three pitons is the last one with so much metal (20m) for now 11 SL.

5th SL (IV) Climbing up to the right, but staying below the yellow wall, it goes up to a gully that leads directly to a small roof. In front of it, slightly to the left, a piton leads to the belaystation at a cube (35m).

.

6. SL (V) After a short traverse to the left, you climb in a gully until a large cube on the left becomes a belaystation (50m).

7th SL (IV+) Climb up the indicated pillar above the belaystation and cross to the right at the end (2 pitons). Now keep to the right and climb up the yellow ramp to the belaystation at two pitons (35m).

8th SL (IV+) First follow the crack and the indicated chimney upwards. Before the crack turn left and before the left scales turn right via a ramp to a belaystation (30m).

9.

9th SL (V) Pleasantly straddling üover several large &airlift;e Klemmblke, it goes first through the chimney, then to the left über the wall to get out. In front of a shed (left) there is an SU for the belaystation (40m).

10th SL (IV+) Now follow the steep gully further up past a piton to the crag on the left (45m).

11th SL (IV) This pitch also takes us up another 45m through a steep gully.

12th SL (IV) We gain further metres in the gully to a belaystation, which is clearly visible through a sling (35m).

13. SL (V+) Initially we bypass the wide and deep crack to the left and then come back to master the difficulty on three pitons. An easy runout leads to the wall. On the right a gully rises, at the base of which we make a belay on two pitons (35m).

.

14th SL (IV) Üüber die Rampe an einen Haken kurz nach rechts querend und üüber ein Band zur inzwischen drei Haken erreichen wir den Stand (45m).

15th SL (IV) Following a ramp to the right we bypass the blocky stem and climb it. Stand on a pulpit on three pitons (20m).

16th SL (V+) Almost brings back memories of the third SL. Yellow rock also greets you in the 16th SL and numerous pitons and belays show you the way. Shortly before the exit, which is on the left at the mouth of a chimney, it is time to slow down. The belaystation consists of a round washed apple and there are cracks on the right side (30m).

17th SL (V+) The beginning shows the masses of water pouring down the chimney. You should never be here in the rain. The rocks are polished smooth by the floods, but at the beginning the climbing difficulty is easy, so that the awestruck view remains without nervous tension. The chimney widens and splendid climbing - secured with three pitons - lets you gain height by bracing and straddling almost powerlessly. The belaystation is at a comfortable crag (30m).

18th SL. (III) Actually the climbing ends at this point. The triple slab has good grip and the summit, although still distant, is already visible. Leaving the rope, you reach an arbitrary crag on the wide ridge (50m).

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19th SL (II) and 20 SL (II) around 100m you now go towards the summit using the easiest route. Stand as you like. At the end, another 60-70m remain (I). The summit cross appears just before you reach it. It rewards with a summit book and a wonderful view.

Descent

.

From the summit we follow the ridge northwards (Steinmännchen) to the Normalwegscharte (UIAA I-II). Before reaching it, abseil down once (III). Passing it, we continue for about 50 metres towards another saddle. Stone markers point the way to the left to the west face, where numerous abseils await us. They lead us to the ascent gully of the normal route. We look at the polished rock with awe. After abseiling twice we reach the bottom. From there to the clearly visible Santnerpasshütte. Here we follow trail 542 past the Gartlhütte, descending to the Vajolet-Hütte.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

By bus from Bolzano to Pozza di Fassa. There with the shuttle bus to Gardeccia. From Gardaccia on foot to the Vajolet hut (45 minutes).

Getting there

Coming from the north before Bolzano through the Val d'Ega and Welschnofen / Karersee into the Val di Fassa. There turn left in the direction of Pozza di Fassa.

Parking

Free parking at the lift and bus station in Pozza di Fassa.

Coordinates

DD
46.458488, 11.632307
DMS
46°27'30.6"N 11°37'56.3"E
UTM
32T 702132 5148357
w3w 
///outlast.advising.drainer
Show on Map
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Mauro Bernardi: Climbing in the Catinaccio and surroundings

Author’s map recommendations

Tobacco, Val di Fassa e Dolomiti Fassane, Bl. 06, 1:25.000

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Normal Alpine Equipment (NAA)

.

There are numerous compilations for a NAA. My suggestion: The DAV Sektion Duisburg has a list of equipment for alpine climbing on its homepage under the heading „Ausbildung“.


Localization

Parts of this content were machine translated using German as the source language


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Rating

5.0
(2)
Isabelle Ernst 
August 02, 2022 · Outdooractive Editors
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Wolfram Stein
August 12, 2019 · alpenvereinaktiv.com
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When did you do this route? August 10, 2015
Ausblick aus der Route
Photo: Wolfram Stein

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
VI- difficult
Distance
3.9 km
Duration
10:00 h
Ascent
738 m
Descent
738 m
Highest point
2,981 m
Lowest point
2,243 m
Circular route Scenic Summit route Abseil Descending on foot

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