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Alpine climbing recommended route

Sarntal - Sarner Schlucht: Softpress

Alpine climbing · Sarntal Alps
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AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Gabriel am Einstieg
    / Gabriel am Einstieg
    Photo: Manuel Egger, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Gabriel in der 3. Seillänge
    Photo: Manuel Egger, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Wandbild "Softpress"
    Photo: Manuel Egger, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Manna in der 3. Seillänge
    Photo: Gabriel Rossi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Gabriel in der 4. Seillänge
    Photo: Manuel Egger, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die Dächer der "Softpress"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Der Johanneskofel von Parkplatz aus
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
m 700 600 500 400 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km Buschenschank Steinmann Parkstelle
difficult
Distance 2.7 km
4:30 h
508 m
508 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Luca De Giorgi
Author
Luca De Giorgi 
Update: July 01, 2020
Difficulty
7c difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Gipfel Johanneskofel, 658 m
Lowest point
Einstieg, 480 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
0:25 h
Wall height
175 m
Climbing length
190 m, 3:30 h
Descent
0:15 h
Belay stations
with bolts
Protection
with bolts, trad gear
Rope length
2 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
13
First ascent
2013 durch Thomas Hochkofler und Raimund Plattner

Rest Stop

Buschenschank Steinmann

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Parkplatz vor Tunnel Nr. 16 (476 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Parkplatz vor Tunnel Nr. 16

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public-transport-friendly

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Nr.040 1:25.000

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
7c difficult
Distance
2.7 km
Duration
4:30 h
Ascent
508 m
Descent
508 m
Public-transport-friendly Refreshment stops available Insider tip Summit route Wall overhanging Descending on foot

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