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Alpine climbing recommended route

Sarner Scharte: Spiel Aus

Alpine climbing · Sarntal Alps
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AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Topo der "Ibrsche" und "Spiel Aus"
    / Topo der "Ibrsche" und "Spiel Aus"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Wandbild der Sarner Scharte
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Parkplatz hinter dem Riedlerhof
    Photo: Peter Warasin, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die 1. SL
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / DIe Platten der 1. SL vom Einstieg
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Der 2. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die 3. SL
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die Schlüsselstelle im Dach
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Der 4. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Blick vom 4. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die letzte SL verläuft durch den Riss in der Mitte der Platte
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Gipfelkreuz der Sarner Scharte
    Photo: Peter Warasin, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Topo der Tour
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
m 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 10 8 6 4 2 km Gipfelkreuz der Sarner Scharte Brunnleit-Brünnl Biwak am Schartl der Sarner Scharte Bildstock am … Topos
difficult
Distance 10.2 km
7:00 h
950 m
950 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Luca De Giorgi
Author
Luca De Giorgi 
Update: December 03, 2020
Difficulty
VII+ difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Gipfel der Sarner Scharte, 2,460 m
Lowest point
Parkplatz Riedlerhof, 1,511 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
750 m, 2:00 h
Wall height
200 m
Climbing length
265 m, 3:30 h
Descent
950 m, 1:45 h
Belay stations
with bolts, trad gear
Protection
sporadic bolts, trad gear
Rope length
2 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
8
First ascent
Armin Schwitzer, Gabriel Rossi; 2020 von unten eröffnet

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Parkplatz Riedlerhof (1,511 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Parkplatz Riedlerhof

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Online-Kletterführer: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Nr.040 1:25.000

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
VII+ difficult
Distance
10.2 km
Duration
7:00 h
Ascent
950 m
Descent
950 m
Insider tip Summit route Wall Slab Descending on foot

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