APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner Explorers Choice
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Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:
- always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
- before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
- do not climbing alone
- stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
- always check the gear present on the wall
- make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use
Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.
Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.
Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.
Tips and hintsTouristboard Dolomiti Paganella
Promeghin is an unusual crag, unique in all the area which ranges from Alto Garda to the Paganella plateau. The crag runs along a wall of conglomerate rock, with many pockets and sticking out stones which are characteristic of this type of rock. Excellent bolting, with resin bolts and the wall which is mostly vertical has some bulges and overhanging sections, and is situated in a beautiful larch wood. This crag is ideal for families and for people who don’t climb, since it is situated near the village and has a lovely meadow at the foot of the wall with a few picnic tables. The ideal season for climbing is during the summer months due to the crag’s north-west exposure. To be avoided after abundant rainfall.
49 ways from 4a to 7b+
Public transportTrentino Trasporti, through Mezzolombardo/Andalo or through Ponte Arche/San Lorenzo in Banale.
By roadOnce you are near the church of San Lorenzo in Banale, which overlooks the state road, follow sign posts for the “campo sportivo/piscina” (sport fields/swimming pool) passing by the bank “Cassa Rurale” (coming from Molveno turn left). Follow this road for 900m till you reach a roundabout to then park in the opening on the right. From here continue on foot (1 min) climbing up the little road which leads to the sports area and the playground. Once on the meadow walk along the fence to the right till you find some wooden steps which, downhill, lead to the base of the rock face.
ParkingSan Lorenzo in Banale - Promeghin.
Book recommendation by the author
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
EquipmentHelmet, harness, biner.
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