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Alpine climbing recommended route

Peitlerkofel Nordwand: "Hruschka"-Führe

Alpine climbing · Peitlerkofel Group
Responsible for this content
AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Peitlerkofel nordwand: "Hruschka"-Führe Wandbild
    / Peitlerkofel nordwand: "Hruschka"-Führe Wandbild
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Peitlerkofel Nordwand: Hruschka Topo
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Peitlerkofel vom Parkplatz aus
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Einstieg der Tour
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 2. Stand am Köpfl
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Alter Stand in der 3. SL
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 3. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 4. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 5. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Blick in die 6. SL
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Blick nach oben vom 7. Stand aus
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 7. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Peter steigt die Schlüssellänge vor
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Thomas in der Schlüsselstelle
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Kat am 10. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Kat am Anfang der Querung in der 11. SL
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 11. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / 12. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Der 13. Stand, schwer zu finden!
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Blick vom 14. Stand
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Der Gipfel des Peitlerkofels
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
m 3200 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 1800 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 km Peitlerkofel/Pütia Fornella Hütte Würzjoch Würzjoch
moderate
Distance 8.2 km
6:45 h
927 m
934 m
2,872 m
1,991 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Luca De Giorgi
Author
Luca De Giorgi 
Update: September 10, 2020
Difficulty
VI- moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Peitlerkofel Spitze, 2,872 m
Lowest point
Parkplatz Würzjoch, 1,991 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
400 m, 1:00 h
Wall height
550 m
Climbing length
650 m, 6:00 h
Descent
950 m, 2:00 h
Belay stations
pitons, trad gear
Protection
pitons, trad gear
Rope length
2 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
7
First ascent
J. Hruscka und Kollegen, 1919

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Parkplatz Würzjoch (1,993 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Parkplatz Würzjoch

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Mauro Bernardi: Klettern in Gröden und Umgebung, Band 2, Athesia Verlag

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco-Karte 30, Brixen/Vilnössertal 1:25.000

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.
Travel Guide: Italy South Tyrol

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Photos from others


Difficulty
VI- moderate
Distance
8.2 km
Duration
6:45 h
Ascent
927 m
Descent
934 m
Highest point
2,872 m
Lowest point
1,991 m
Scenic Summit route Wall Slab Descending on foot

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