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Havanna (Pinocchio, Monte Garzo, Valle Maggia)

Alpine climbing · Ticino Alps
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Outdooractive Climbing Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • At the end of the 4th pitch (5c)
    At the end of the 4th pitch (5c)
    Photo: Johanna Singer, Outdooractive Climbing
m 600 500 400 300 200 1,8 1,6 1,4 1,2 1,0 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 km
Distance 1.8 km
4:00 h
343 m
343 m
604 m
261 m
Beautiful route over slabs, flakes and crimps with good protection in the beautiful Maggia Valley gneiss, the descent is done by abseiling via the route

The Havanna in the sector Pinocchio on Monte Garzo offers 5 pitches over 240 meters of climbing. The first pitches are quite flat, further up it becomes more grippy with flakes, crimps and cracks. The route is well secured with bolts. The belays are set up for abseiling. The descent to the left over the ramp didn´t look very inviting to us. Due to the short approach and mostly only 5 pitches, the routes in the sector Pinocchio can be climbed well on bad weather days or when there is little time. If you have more time, you can add one or two more routes. So a whole day of climbing can be filled with a lot of climbing meters. The routes in the sector Pinocchio are very good at the beginning, before you try the long, strenuous and demanding “Alhambra” (6b+/ 6a+ obl., 600 m, 18 pitches, very well secured), which begins a little further down on the right.

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Profile picture of Johanna Singer Author Johanna Singer
Always keep smiling ;)

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