Beautiful route over slabs, flakes and crimps with good protection in the beautiful Maggia Valley gneiss, the descent is done by abseiling via the route
The Havanna in the sector Pinocchio on Monte Garzo offers 5 pitches over 240 meters of climbing. The first pitches are quite flat, further up it becomes more grippy with flakes, crimps and cracks. The route is well secured with bolts. The belays are set up for abseiling. The descent to the left over the ramp didn´t look very inviting to us. Due to the short approach and mostly only 5 pitches, the routes in the sector Pinocchio can be climbed well on bad weather days or when there is little time. If you have more time, you can add one or two more routes. So a whole day of climbing can be filled with a lot of climbing meters. The routes in the sector Pinocchio are very good at the beginning, before you try the long, strenuous and demanding “Alhambra” (6b+/ 6a+ obl., 600 m, 18 pitches, very well secured), which begins a little further down on the right.
The aim of the Outdooractive Climbing site is to bring you professional climbing content of the highest quality alongside all the information you could need for your climbing holiday or when tackling your next route. In addition to a wide variety of multi-pitch routes, we will also be featuring sport climbing areas in greater detail in the near future.