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Alpine climbing recommended route

Große Zinne Südwand - Normalweg

· 3 reviews · Alpine climbing · Sexten Dolomites
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ÖAV Sektion Braunau Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • die Südseite der Drei Zinnen mit Auronzohütte vom Bonacossaweg aus gesehen
    / die Südseite der Drei Zinnen mit Auronzohütte vom Bonacossaweg aus gesehen
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / mittig die Einstiegsschlucht
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Zustieg Richtung Scharte Große/Kleine Zinne
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / die etwas abdrängende Einstiegsrampe links der Scharte
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / im Schluchtgrund
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / die Vorbauwand kurz vor der 1.Scharte
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Spreizschritt weg vom Vorbau
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Die Kapelle, Abzweig zum Einstieg
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / III° Rampe zum nicht sichtbaren 'Schlüssel'Kamin rechts des Spaltes
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / der glatte Kaminteil ist überwunden
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Kaminausstieg in steile Wand
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / kurze Bänderquerung
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Verschneidung zum Übergang auf das Terrassenband
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Kleine Zinne
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / gestufter Ausstieg auf das Terrassenband
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Terrassenband
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / geneigter Gipfelanstieg
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Zinnenkreuz
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Nordblick zu Dreizinnenhütte, Toblinger Knoten und Dreischusterspitze
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Sammlung und Kräftigung vor dem Abstieg
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Auronzohütte an den Südabstürzen der Westlichen Zinne
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Abseilstelle oberhalb des glatten Kamins
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / einfacher Kaminabstieg
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
  • / Kleine-Große-Westliche Zinne von Nordost (Paternkofelanstieg)
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, ÖAV Sektion Braunau
m 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 4,0 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km
moderate
Distance 4.4 km
8:00 h
750 m
750 m
Profile picture of Wolfgang Lauschensky
Author
Wolfgang Lauschensky 
Update: July 01, 2021
Difficulty
III moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Große Zinne, 2,999 m
Lowest point
Auronzo Hütte, 2,310 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
200 m
Wall height
500 m
Climbing length
550 m
Descent
750 m
Belay stations
with bolts, trad gear
Protection
trad gear
Rope length
1 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
4

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Auronzohütte (2,319 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Große Zinne

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco 010: Sextener Dolomiten

Book recommendations for this region:

Show more

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

5.0
(3)
Helge Tielbörger 
September 14, 2021 · alpenvereinaktiv.com
Show more
Markus Fuchs 
October 22, 2020 · Community
Show more
When did you do this route? July 18, 2020
Frank Layer 
October 22, 2017 · Community
Show more
Große Zinne
Photo: Frank Layer, Community

Photos from others

+ 7

Reviews
Difficulty
III moderate
Distance
4.4 km
Duration
8:00 h
Ascent
750 m
Descent
750 m
Out and back Scenic Refreshment stops available Geological highlights Summit route Wall

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