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Alpine climbing recommended route

Glaning - Schwarzwand: Villa Kunterbunt

· 1 review · Alpine climbing · Südtirols Süden
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AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Johannes über Bozen
    / Johannes über Bozen
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Johannes kur vor der Schlüsselstelle
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Wandbild der Touren "Villa Kunterbunt" & "Hoppetosse"
    Photo: Johannes Kaufmann, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Einstieg der Touren "Villa Kunterbunt" und "Hoppetosse"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Wandbild der Touren "Villa Kunterbunt" und "Hoppetosse"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Topo der Touren "Villa Kunterbunt" und "Hoppetosse"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Johannes in der 2. Länge von "Villa Kunterbunt"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
m 1000 900 800 700 1,4 1,2 1,0 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 km Parkplatz Parkplatz
moderate
Distance 1.6 km
3:00 h
260 m
255 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Peter Warasin
Author
Peter Warasin 
Update: March 01, 2021
Difficulty
6c+ moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Ausstieg, 1,001 m
Lowest point
Parkplatz, 762 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
140 m, 0:15 h
Wall height
110 m
Climbing length
140 m, 2:00 h
Descent
250 m, 0:45 h
Belay stations
with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts
Protection
with bolts
Rope length
2 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
14
First ascent
2016 durch Florian Gojer, Egon Larcher und Lukas Plattner - HG Bozen

Rest Stop

Gasthof Messner

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Parkplatz (776 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Parkplatz

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Online-Kletterführer: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks

 

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Nr.034 1:25.000

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

5.0
(1)
Michael Mair 
May 01, 2021 · Outdooractive Editors
When did you do this route? May 01, 2021

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
6c+ moderate
Distance
1.6 km
Duration
3:00 h
Ascent
260 m
Descent
255 m
Circular route Scenic Refreshment stops available Wall Slab Descending on foot

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