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Alpine climbing recommended route

Glaning - Bodenwand: Wo Die Schoschonen Schön Wohnen

Alpine climbing · Südtirols Süden
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 AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Einstieg der Tour
    / Einstieg der Tour
    Photo: Johannes Kaufmann, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Johannes in den ersten Meter der 1. Seillänge
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Wandbild der Touren "Altenberverschneidung" und "Wo die Schoschonen schön wohnen"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Wandbild der Touren "Altenbergverschneidung" und "Wo die Schoschonen schön wohnen"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Topo der Touren "Altenbergverschneidung" und "Wo die Schoschonen schön wohnen"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-ND, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Bozen und die Dolomiten im Hintergrund
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Die 1. Seillänge verläuft unter mächtigen Dächern
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
  • / Ausblick zur Kirche in St. Pauls, im Überetsch
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, CC BY-SA, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
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m 1000 900 800 700 600 2,0 1,8 1,6 1,4 1,2 1,0 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 km Parkplatz
moderate
Distance 2.2 km
3:00 h
272 m
272 m
906 m
634 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Luca De Giorgi
Author
Luca De Giorgi 
Update: April 02, 2021
Difficulty
6b moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Ausstieg, 906 m
Lowest point
Parkplatz, 634 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
200 m, 0:30 h
Wall height
75 m
Climbing length
100 m, 1:30 h
Descent
275 m, 0:45 h
Belay stations
with bolts
Protection
with bolts
Rope length
2 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
14
First ascent
2005 durch Klaus Schwarz und Raimund Plattner - HG Bozen

Rest Stop

Gasthof Messner

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Parkplatz an der Straße unter der Tour, Glaning (634 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Parkplatz an der Straße unter der Tour, Glaning

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public-transport-friendly

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Online-Kletterführer: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks

 

Author’s map recommendations

Tobacco: 034 Bozen-Ritten-Salten
All publications

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Travel Guide: Alpine climbing routes in Südtirols Süden

Italy › South Tyrol › Bolzano

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Photos from others

Difficulty
6b moderate
Distance
2.2 km
Duration
3:00 h
Ascent
272 m
Descent
272 m
Highest point
906 m
Lowest point
634 m
Public-transport-friendly Insider tip Wall Slab

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