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Alpine climbing recommended route

Fensterlturm (2.670 m) - Südkante rauf und am Fenster runter

· 2 reviews · Alpine climbing · Dolomites
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DAV Sektion Teisendorf Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Fensterlturm Südkante Übersichtsbild - Topo
    / Fensterlturm Südkante Übersichtsbild - Topo
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / Fensterlturm Südgrat Topo
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / Fensterlturm - Klettertour in Südtirol
    Video: DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / kurz nach der Rotwandhütte ist die dünne Scheibe des Fensterlturms zu sehen
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / nach einem engen Spalt (stahlseilversichert) ...
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / ... steht die markante Südkante direkt vor einem
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / schon am ersten Stand ist die Aussicht prächtig
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / beeindruckender Tiefblick in der 2. SL (unten ist der Zustiegsweg gut erkennbar)
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / der 2. Stand auf der gelben Rampe
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / der Ausbruch des "Rüssels" ist noch gut zu erkennen
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / Gruppenfoto auf dem Fensterlturm
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / Gipfelpanorama vom Fensterlturm
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / die Abseilstelle befindet sich wenige Meter nördlich vom großen Block
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / Kreuz im Fensterlturm
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
  • / abgeseilt wird direkt vorbei am Fenster
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Sektion Teisendorf
m 2800 2700 2600 2500 2400 2300 2200 1,8 1,6 1,4 1,2 1,0 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 km Rifugio Roda di Vaèl (Rotwandhütte) Rifugio Roda di Vaèl (Rotwandhütte) Fensterlturm (2.670 m) Einstieg Fensterlturm (2.600 m)
moderate
Distance 1.9 km
3:00 h
370 m
370 m
2,670 m
1,750 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Stefan Stadler
Author
Stefan Stadler 
Update: September 16, 2021
Difficulty
IV-, 4a moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Fensterlturm, 2,670 m
Lowest point
Rifugio Roda di Vael (Rotwandhütte), 1,750 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
300 m, 1:00 h
Wall height
70 m
Climbing length
100 m, 1:00 h
Descent
370 m, 1:00 h
Belay stations
with bolts, pitons
Protection
pitons, trad gear
Rope length
1 x 50 m
Number of quickdraws
5
First ascent
J. Anhuber, H. Tomasi und L. Mitterdorf im Jahr 1905

Rest Stop

Rifugio Roda di Vaèl (Rotwandhütte)

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Rifugio Roda di Vael - Rotwandhütte (2,278 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Rifugio Roda di Vael - Rotwandhütte

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public-transport-friendly

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

von Mauro Bernardi: Klettern im Rosengarten und Umgebung, Loboedition: Dolomiten vertikal Band Nord - beide im Onlineshop von freytag & berndt

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco Karte Blatt 06 Val di Fassa im detailgetreuen Maßstab 1:25000 - erhältlich bei freytag & berndt

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

4.0
(2)
Hubert Moderegger 
July 28, 2017 · Community
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Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
IV-, 4a moderate
Distance
1.9 km
Duration
3:00 h
Ascent
370 m
Descent
370 m
Highest point
2,670 m
Lowest point
1,750 m
Public-transport-friendly Circular route Scenic Refreshment stops available Family-friendly Geological highlights Summit route Wall Slab Descending on foot

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