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Alpine climbing recommended route

Buch-Führe, Kafmannspitze Baumann-Tschagerkamm (2726 m), Dolomiten (Rosengarten)

Alpine climbing · Rosengarten Group
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DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Wandbild
    / Wandbild
    Photo: Bianca Drerup, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / 1. Stand
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 1. Stand in die 1. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 1. Stand in die 2. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / 2. Stand
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 2. Stand in die 2. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 2. Stand in die 3. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / 3. Stand in Scharte (Zwischenstand)
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 3. Stand in die 3. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 3. Stand in die 4. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / 4. Stand
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 4. Stand in die 4. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 4. Stand in die 5. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 5. Stand in 6. Seillänge
    Photo: Bianca Drerup, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / 6. Stand mit Wandbuch
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 6. Stand in die 6. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 6. Stand in die 7. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / 8. Stand an Köpfel
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 8. Stand in die 8. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Fluchtmöglichkeit nach der 8. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Vom 8. Stand in die 9. Seillänge
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Grat zum Tschagerjoch vom Ausstieg aus
    Photo: Bianca Drerup, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Abseilstelle
    Photo: Bianca Drerup, DAV Sektion Duisburg
  • / Abseilstelle vom Weg aus
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg
m 2900 2800 2700 2600 2500 2400 2300 2200 1,8 1,6 1,4 1,2 1,0 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 km Rosengartenhütte (Kölner Hütte) Rosengartenhütte (Kölner Hütte) Kabinenbahn König Laurin
difficult
Distance 1.9 km
5:30 h
449 m
449 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Thomas Schwindt
Author
Thomas Schwindt 
Update: August 25, 2021
Difficulty
V- difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Kafmann-Spitze, 2,726 m
Lowest point
Kölner Hütte (Rifugio Fronza alle Coronelle), 2,337 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Access
200 m, 0:30 h
Wall height
230 m
Climbing length
255 m, 4:00 h
Descent
450 m, 1:00 h
Belay stations
pitons, trad gear
Protection
pitons, trad gear
Rope length
2 x 50 m
First ascent
H. und F. Kafmann, M. Bittner 1978

Rest Stop

Rosengartenhütte (Kölner Hütte)

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Kölner Hütte (Rifugio Fronza alle Coronelle) (2,333 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Kölner Hütte (Rifugio Fronza alle Coronelle)

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public-transport-friendly

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Mauro Bernardi: Klettern im Rosengarten und Umgebung

Author’s map recommendations

Tobacco, Val di Fassa e Dolomiti Fassane, Bl. 06, 1:25.000

Book recommendations for this region:

Show more

Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
V- difficult
Distance
1.9 km
Duration
5:30 h
Ascent
449 m
Descent
449 m
Public-transport-friendly Circular route Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Wall Slab Abseil Descending on foot

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